Head gasket quote
Sorry to ask another newbie question but seem to be having some expensive bother with the new G wagon purchase! I am currently being quoted around 1200 for a head gasket redo and new water pump on a 91 300GES. Before i give the green light I thought I'd get a consensus to see if this was reasonable . They are a reputable mercedes garage and I know that this involves a lot of labour. I would appreciate any advice.
Hi what symptoms are having to suggest a head gasket / water pump requirement???
there is a fair amount of work but that figure seems closer to a main dealer price than it needs to be :?: If the car is still drivable get some quotes outside of London if you can.
I've just done the head gasket on my 230. The WIS quotes 8 hours for the head gasket alone, which seems reasonable for an experienced well equipped professional. Although I did the work myself I could see how you could pay £1200 for it in London.
Hi head gasket fauilure allows oil to seep from between the head and the block ...lots of oil is probably from a failed rocker cover gasket which allows the oil that settles at the rear of the cylinder head (because of the slope of the engine) to run out...have them wash the area clean and run the engine to normal temperature and watch for the leak..A rocker cover gasket costs around GBP 20.....
The 300 does suffer from oil leaking from the back of the engine, but thats not a good enough diagnosis to say the head gasket has gone! You should see water in the oil and a loss of water too to determine a head gasket.
Hi Fixwin38
I have a similar problem i.e oil sipping at the back end of the engine top. Not sure if it is the cylinder head gasket or rocker cover gasket. This leak became more pronounced once I changed the oil from semi to fully synthetic. One thing for sure, no water in the oil. Any suggestions as to how I can ascertain with confidence if it is a head gasket or a rocker cover gasket , apart from renewing the rocker cover gasket and rechecking for leaks ?? Thanks
Quote " this leak became more severe after changing to fully synthetic oil".
Would any of the experts comment on the wisdom of this oil change and what is considered to be the most appropriate oil for an elderly 300GE?
its a fairly low compression engine, single caM, not really stressed given its output and was designed in the early 1980's, it doesn't need a fully synthetic oil, in fact a semi synthetic may be too "good". Good in the pointlessly expensive, waste of money kind of way.
First point:
Oil used Mobil Synthetic Green. Suitable for all (including old) engines with catalytic converters.
Point 2. Old car registration , but with only 80k in the clock from new. These engines if properly looked after they will last a lfe time.
Point3 . If one is prepared to shop around, you will be pleasantly surprised of the cost . I got mine through Amazon!
Point4.- Frankly speaking, I do have the impresson that the engine seems to be running somewhat "sweeter"
Point 5.- there is no difference in the oil pressure gauge, which stays firlmy at the top stop of the scale when running and above the 2,5 kg/m2 mark when engine hot and idling.
Point 6. Aways a delight to check the quality of the oil on dipstick !!
Point 7.-Synthetic oil allows longer periods between oil changes. Thereby probably cheaper to use
than the straight mineral oil in the long run.
Reply to thread number 6 and 9.
Please clean the engine and keep a regular check on it to trace your oil leak. If necessary, use a small hand held mirror to check the back of the head and rocker cover gasket to check for leaks.
On relatively higher mileage engines, use the standard 15W/40 mineral oil if available and make use of a concentrated engine flush between oil changes; keep to the 6,000 miles intervals for the petrol engines and 4,500 miles fo rthe Diesel engines.
The fully synthetic oil is useful if you spend the majority of your driving time to Motorways. This oil can last longer inbetween changes but that time needs qualifying! Synthetic oil can chemically deteriorate as mineral oils, but the time scales are different.
If you adopt the regime of renewing oil at the regular intervals, then the money spent on Fully synthetic oil is a waste of money.
cheers,
Unfortunately, the leak is between the block and the cylinder head. not between the head and the cam cover.
Anybody has the procedures for replacing the head gasket for teh M103 series engine??
Thanks for all your responses
I brought it in because it was leaking loads of oil from the back of the engine, which was diagnosed as a head gasket in the garage. The garage suggested replacing the water pump at the same time as it requires very little extra labour.
In the end decided to go with a local reliable mechanic and we will see. I will keep you posted.
Thanks again
Dimitri