Diff lock cylinder

Without your VIN I can't be certain; but for my 280 it's A460 350 06 84 (161.14 Euros ) in Germany. It shows on the price lookup site as a rear one but the EPC shows front and rear as the same part # These are the slave cylinders on the axel, if that’s what you wanted.
If its the master cylinders you want they are different front/rear and the VIN is needed as there are several types.

You can get a repair kit for them at much less cost.

Hope this helps

I should have added that repair kits should only be used to replace perished seals and not with scored or corroded bores. As far as the G is concerned the amount of work needed to replace the locker master cylinders would not really warrant just replacing the seals which will add considerably more time to the work. A master cylinder is 136 euro – repair kit 55 euro.

Colin
The rear cylinder for your truck is A460 350 06 84 probably the same for all 460 Gs

The part on eBay was a rear master cylinder though its number is not any of the ones listed for your VIN but it is listed as the earliest rear master cylinder for my 280 GE.

Soak nipple that is stuck with penetrating fluid and repeat for a few days and see if it helps. I’m bound to get flamed (no pun intended) for this but there is always the “blue wrench” a very small welding torch flame locally applied very briefly preferably with the cylinder off the truck. If you have access to one: really a last resort but normally saves a sheared nut etc.

If it shears you could probably remove the remains with an extractor and just renew the nipple A000 420 51 55 : 6.15 euro or A000 420 48 55 (not listed on the Daimler/Chrysler site)

I just spent a few hours under my truck getting brake fluid in my face trying to find out where all the fluid had gone. It was a perished rubber tube from the reservoir pipe to the master cylinder, when found only took 2 mins to change. Luckily it was not that nasty cheap plastic F piece that joins the cylinders together.

Good luck

I agree, careful use of heat should get it. A fine acetylene flame, but not too close - you dont want to weld it in!

Its not just the heat though it is part of it.:The idea is to heat just the nipple to a high temp and cool it with a squirt of water, the expansion and contraction frees the stuck part. Oxyacetylene with a small flame is very very hot and can heat up a small area without damaging the seals buy heating up the whole thing. I guess you could try it – if you can use MAPP gas rather than propane as it burns hotter. I used to regularly use a welding torch to free seized parts especially on corroded exhaust that would otherwise just round off – that was until the gear was stolen. :cry:

I will have to bleed my lockers soon so I could be in the same position.

Sorry I cant be of more help.

You need to find a nice friendly old style garage – with trustworthy mechanics and see if you can get someone to heat up your nipples - pardon the expression – might not be easy – but it will probably save you a lot of problems.

Good Luck