Front axle/diff pinion seal replacement
Front diff input seal from the prop = pinion which is leaking (synthetic oil.. does wonders for your warm up time though).
I can see what you need to buy (2 seals and one nut) from here;
http://www.4x4abc.com/G-Class/pinion.seal/pinion.html
But how do you ensure you put the nut back in the right place without crushing the crush tube somemore and needing to reset the gear mesh?
.. could counts turns of old nut but more likely there is a torque that will get preload onto bearings without crushing tube?.. or is it a case of tighten to 35 ftlbs odd and then back off to just a little preload and stake the nut?
Bearings feel fine..
Ta
Are you mot'd?
:D Hello mgrays,
:wink: If the choice represents its self, leave well alone - this job. But, if you are pedantic enough to carry on; depending on the severity of oil leak, opt to change your diff. oil to mineral. Hopefully, its thicker viscosity will cure your oil leak problem. If not, then, consider changing the seal, only if the leak is bad enough, by that, I mean, it drips on the ground leaving you oil drips all over the floor or leaves the underside of your vehicle nicely “under-sealedâ€Â.
:roll: Should you choose to leave the job, naturally, you will want adopt the habit of checking the diff. oil level more frequently.
:shock: These flange seals do leak some what, some tend to be self-sealing; others’ tend to come and go. I would say change the seal if it really splattered with oil.
:P In case you do change, your own description was good enough on how to change. Make an indent on the nut and flange, undo and count the number of turns until the nut comes off, renew the seal. To refit the seal and nut count back on the same number of counts’. Obviously, you would have to transfer the mark made on the old nut to the same position on the new nut and apply a little bit more torque by HAND only before locking the nut with a pinch mark.
There would be no need to re-torque as tightening by hand; you would have reached the point of where the collapsible washer would have been ensuring the washer does not compress further, than it have ought to.
Good luck. :wink:
Regards,
Well. It's a credit to you.
I'd say go with the cosworth shifter if you can - the military one is a pain to use but it might just need a rebuild. I replaced the bushes last weekend and it comes out of reverse now and straight into 2nd now without having to go through 1st
Well to answer my own question from a while back :oops:
Just done the front diff input seal;
Remove front prop
Undo stake on nut with screwdriver twisting in groove
Jam brakes on with stick between pedal and driver's seat
Use 12 point 31mm socket to undo nut on input flange (conventional RH thread on 460 but 463 might change as it goes the other way around)
Mark flange at shaft groove position just to keep it right
Tap off the flange; have front wheel in air so you tap then spin wheel to tap at 180 degrees around from first tap.
Clean around seal/housing interface
Use screwdriver to prise out seal - note old 460 have 2 seals but when you buy replacements you only get one seal which does the job of 2 seals (and so is twice as thick).
Use 1000 wet and dry with white spirits to clean up the flange seal running face - I find this makes lip seals last longer and actually seal.
Replace seal with grease
Replace flange in same place
Replace old nut to exactly the same place (this positions the diff gears so it must be kept in the same place)
Restake nut
Refit prop
Check oil level in Diff...
I did whack shaft on end to loosening things up; nut is pretty tight and had to jack car up to get a good enough pull to undo it with 2' bar on a 32mm socket which had been turned down by someone else already. The 31mm socket is better as it is under the max you can get into the flange recess... I got one from Ebay for £6 delivered as my 30 and 32mm standard 3/4" sockets would not fit :cry:
JOIN THE GWOA
This website and forum are provided for the benefit of enthusiasts and owners of all Mercedes Benz off road vehicles, in particular the G Wagen. The costs of development, upkeep and provision of the site are met entirely by the annual subscriptions of club members. If you are using the site and are not a member of the G Wagen Owners Association please consider joining. You will have access to areas on the site that are not open to non members, to club trips and meetings and to technical assistance. In addition your contribution (only £25 annually) will help us maintain and develop our website for future users.
Who's new
- Jaffa_JIM_23
- Wrabstar
- GG
- KTMSCANIA22
- 280ge
Mr Dent aka Chris,
Yes I'm Mot'ed and all legal for the first time in 3 years... and for the next week and half it was the only way up to my house as it snowed.. and then just when I thought it was done.. it had a real wet drift for an area about 2 miles in diameter which did for the road in 3' for 1/4 mile uphill in a hollow(after I managed to get stuck in 2wd with diff locks in :oops: helps if you go across to get low ratio :lol: ).. so then it was the field after neighbour's tractor dug out the top half of our road.. Still doing some tidying and no radio yet; fixed the head unit at weekend but now need robust and loud speakers plus fitting amp. But must be 450 miles done. Must get those props balanced.. and close my ears to 3th and 5th gear whine. Did manage to lock into 3rd only once this time .. but popped it out (whack lever over to left.. trick from the days of new G's!).. really ought to get a Granny box fitted.. then I could fit my Exhaust Gas Temp gauge and turn up the boost :twisted: Is the Cosworth gear change a lot better?
Yesterday was the first non G drive for a while then .. back to way over 40mpg and 75 instead of 21 mpg and 60 mph.. but here is a poor early morning photo with the headlights fixed.. well they are now RHD.. anyone for a set of LHD headlights in glass?
Rakesh aka Pistonhead,
Well trying to sort my oil leaks which used to OMG like.. ie 10" patch from 8 hours standing after 26 miles at 60mph.. now down to more reasonable levels after rerouting turbo drain and playing mix and match with turbos and their seals. ..
But..
Front diff has goodly drip maybe 1/4" to 1/2" patch after 12 hours and 26 mile drive .. then turbo drain still has little persistent drip.. and gearbox has big stream of mist from the top rear as the wading tube is missing plus the 5th ratio selector rod is really wobbly.. as in you can see the external seal move around which does not help. Plus rear crank seal/clutch/bellhousing area always has a few drips waiting.. I must be getting too used to Japan based products! So I will go and fix the diff .. already did steering box after adjusting it which is already questionable for some (ie adjust and it leaks.. but seal is a pain to fix).. (drop arm was bending 5t puller and taking serious abuse from 4lbs hammer when it popped.. would have taken a few limbs out!.. no flame spanner :cry: ). So yes .. like my cars to be right.