Transfer Box - Checking Oil Level but Seized Bolt
I have the 14MM Hex Key (1/2" Drive) but am unable to remove the fill bolt or the drain plug :evil: . Am I able to heat it without doing damage to the internals or does anyone else have any suggestions? They didn't make this one left-tight, right-loose just to make me look stupid did they? :oops:
Hi, pretty sure it's a normal thread and yes they usually are tight - the transfer case is alloy so be careful with heat - chances are it's never been checked from new so the oxidation will have built up on the alloy threads. I have a feeling the threads are tappered too so you might just need a longer breaker bar, penetrating oil for a few days might help also.
Chris
Hi Use the correct sized allen key(the correct MB tool can sometimes be found in the tool roll behind the glove box) and 1/2 a metre of steel pipe.a progressive pull normally works.the fact that there is (or should be) oil on the back side of the plug should deter the dreaded "mixed metals" reaction on the threads.....application of heat is not adviseable unless very localised..... and remove the fill plug first.it will give you an indication of the contents level....
Yes, I have the correct allen key and used a breaker bar but still no go. I have it soaking with Release-All and will have another go of it in a few days.
David
I think I would concentrate on just the filler if you are worried - and you could always use one of those suction devices to take the old oil out without having to remove the drain plug.
Good luck
a possible way to help it out.......get a hex bit that you put a 1/2 drive socket on the end of and give it a fair tap with a sensible hammer so it is as tight as can be in the plug and maybe the shock from the hammer blows may help to free it up somewhat.
You blaggard Mark
I was going to suggest "upsetting" it to use the blacksmiths terminology.
I have found it to work for me, in combination with easing oil.
And a F-----g long bar some days later, when the oil has soaked in
and actually actually the oil in the gear box will not I think prevent "galvanic corrision"?, ie that caused by two dissimilar metals.
I enjoyed metal work in School
I have the 14MM Hex Key (1/2" Drive) but am unable to remove the fill bolt or the drain plug :evil: . Am I able to heat it without doing damage to the internals or does anyone else have any suggestions? They didn't make this one left-tight, right-loose just to make me look stupid did they? :oops:
The drain plug is a standard thread, to undo turn anti-clockwise.
Some can be difficult to undo. With caution, and exercise your judgement in this; with a gentle torch, heat a-r-o-u-n-d the drain plug and not directly on it. Do not let the oil in the t/box boil or heat too much! If need be using a freeze spray, the kind now available from pharmarsists for the treatment of warts, spray in short bursts the drain plug.
Using a breaker bar on an allen key socket or an allen key with an extension tube on it, attempt to undo the drain plug. Excersice caution, transfer case can crack with extreme force and temperature applied to it.
Alternatively, drill out the drain plug, chiseling out the reminder pieces and replace with a new plug.
Goodluck,
Regards,
Hit the plug itself to shock things but ensure you do not distort the plug or brake the housing .. then ensure your allen key is well hammered into a very clean socket hole.. and good old bit of scaffold pipe .. but before this Plus Gas etc for a day or two after a good wire brush and scrape to help it get into the gaps ... heat if you have it... and hammering on the allen key if you cannot get a scaff pole on it.. All good blacksmith stuff;)
Great ideas guys! I'll have to give it some tapps and will allow a few more days of soaking before I try again. I'll apply some bio-diesel to soak in as it removes rust on everything it touches (also paint if you're not careful). I know, it's a petro engine; we make bio at work for our vans and use it around the shop.
Hopefully I don't have to chisel it out, but that will be a last resort as I see lots of old seepage around the input shaft. As I just bought this, and don't know how long it's been wet, I assume the worst and need to check the level.
some crackin tips there and a use for wart spray .............. :D
twodogs
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Thanks again Chris. I did spray with penetrating oil, so I guess I'll keep spraying and wait a few more days. I do have a long bar but it's starting to twist the Hex, so I'm playing it safe. I'll wait and see how it goes.
Cheers - David