clutch woes - please help!!
Hi all
Finally got around to installing s/h engine in my 230SWB G wagen. Its a duplex chain from a 90 230te, heavily reverted to basic spec to run with G injection etc. Was installed without removing gearbox, with a lot of careful jiggling !!!
Started first time, too, what a result.
Now the bad bit.
Clutch does not operate
Engine converted from Auto to manual, new pressure plate installed. Am convinced everything went back correctly (there is the slim possibility i've used the wrong pressure plate but cant check that till i've got past the basics). I don't do manual's as a rule. Unsure whether clutch was operational on old engine as was a none runner, although i did manage to drop it in gear on the move on the clutch whilst being towed home.
Clutch pedal does go to the floor ok, not too easily (i think) but cannot select any gears while running, trying to force it causes the engine to labour. Can select gears when the engine isnt running but an attempted start with the clutch down proves the clutch isnt working (GET OUT OF THE WAY!!!)
Any brilliant suggestions? It looks like the gearbox will be a pain in the backside to remove due to exhaust/propshafts/linkages etc etc etc
Hi John when you installed the pressure plate and friction disc did you centre the disc? did the gearbox mate with attachment plate or did you pull it together with the attachment bolts? it may be that the spigot shaft of the gearbox did not line up with the fly wheel centre and as you pulled it together on the bolts it is binding.back off the mating bolts and run the engine. the centrefuge effect may put things right..otherwise if the clutch pedal is hard to press the shaft that the thrust bearing sits on may be out of place or siezed..you should be able to run the engine in gear with the back wheels off tthe ground and the front ones chocked ..a again the centrefuge effect may put things right.....
Jonnyboy, which gearbox are you using? The yoke and thrust bearing are different for the Getrag and the van type boxes. Presume you have bled the clutch slave.
Chris
getrag 5 spd box chris. would it need bleeding after an engine change?
getrag 5 spd box chris. would it need bleeding after an engine change?
If you used the yoke and thrust bearing that came with the box you should be fine. If you didn't disconect any hydraulic lines then no but I am an expert on missing the obvious :roll: When I swapped the getrag for the military the clutch slave pin didn't hit the shorter yoke and the bearing was thinner so neither had enough throw. Sounds like Peter is on the right lines though.
Hi John try bleeding the clutch and also check the piston travel at the master cylinder...the fitting behind the pedal is adjustable and regulates the amount the piston inside the master cylinder travels..when you start to press the pedal there is movement before the piston starts to move then the next part of the travel actuates the slave cylinder on top of the gearbox ( the bite point) where the clutch plate pressure is released and the friction plate is revolving freely ie: disengaged..at this point the gears can be selected without moving the vehicle...it does point to air in the clutch hydraulics..bleed in to a partly filled jar to stop air being sucked back in as you release the pedal..use dot4+ hydraulic oil....
cheers guys. update so far - hydraulic fluid puddling nicely under carpet(have washed out!!), slave cylinder off and repair kit ordered & will be in post tomorrow (ebay £6.99+3 p&p). please pray for me !!!!!
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hi peter. pressure plate centred with clutch tool. engine and bellhousing lined up dowel to hole then tightened. clutch pedal feels "normal" although its the first manual g i've had. may try the jack-up job though, will report back. it just feels like i have no clutch at all, basically. thanks