The old chestnut, vibrations!
I hope no-one minds re-visiting this one, i have read all the forums and just want to run this through the members one more time.
My 280 SWB has just spent two and a half weeks in the care of my local garage looking for the vibration in the drivetrain that is worse than ever. 60 quid and an oil change later, they could not diagnose the problem.
They suggested it could be, the prop joints, the gearbox or the transfer case, thanks for the advice!
The transfer case stick vibrates all the time and gets worse with speed. This is even making the floor panels vibrate now. There may also me a small leak from the transfer case itself, as there is usually a drop of fluid hanging from the bottom of the case.
The back prop seems easy enough to remove, and I will, but the front props are wedged under the engine and look a bugger to get to. Is it easy to get them off and check them? or does it require removing most of the engine/gearbox to get to them?
Also, is there any way to diagnose a duff bearing in the gearbox/transfer case without removing them from the vehicle?
and what chance do I have of finding/solving the problem myself if a team of mechanics cant find anything in a fortnight?
thanks in advance.
Hi since only the rear propshaft and the short shaft from gear box to the transfer box are live in 2 wheel drive I would look very closely at worn needle roller bearings in the crosses at each end of the propshafts and also loose flange bolts which will wear elongated holes in the flanges.also the splined sections of the shafts can suffer from lack of grease and judder.I presume this is a recent problem!! first thing before removing the shafts pump every swivel cap and spline full of multi purpose grease and thern drive the vehicle to see if the vibration is less.this will be a pointer to the wear in the needle rollers.. the kits are available from MB but require close tolerance settings when fitting.does the vibration change when 4 wheel drive high range is engaged and are there any whining noises emanating from the transfer box area ???
Hi Jed see if you have any "float" on the shafts where they come out of the transfer box...grip the flange and push up or use a pry bar Gently!!! it would appear to be around the transfer box area.. check the box attachment points.lie underneath while somebody rocks the car backwards and forwards with the low range four wheel drive selected and see what leaps about ( handbrake off.. gear lever in 2 or 3 position) or if your brave and have total confidence in the the person on the pedals ....engine running at idle engage gear one.. hand brake hard on and blip the throttle ..do the same in reverse..chock the wheels for added safety.the whole drive train should flex in a straight line any bucking or shaking of the prop shafts or transfer box will help you locate the problem.
Thanks for the advice guys!
will get under the truck this weekend and have a good poke about and
will let you know what I find.
If there is any play in the back prop at all I will remove it and see what happens.
James
Look at the mount of the transfer case and also the extra bracing of the transfer case to the body. This extra bracing is there to reduce vibrations. It can break depending on the year and model and was obviously an afterthought
I had a 230 with this problem, went through the lot, then took the engine out and found the one engine mount was knackered, fitted two new ones and the problem was solved, after replacing pretty much every thing else.
. I now have a 560 and that vibrates too, but thats due to 300 bhp, but ill put up with that. :twisted:
Hi all,
Due to the weather and my 7 week old baby I havent managed to do more than have a good rummage around under the body.
I have resolved to build a new double garage that is big enough to get the cars in though, will save all the soggy knees and back. heh.
anyway, I am now pretty sure that the problem lies with the drive shaft between the gearbox and the transfer case. but how on earth do I get to it?
do I need to remove half the exhaust system to get at it? it is right above the first silencer!
chances are the reason it is siezing up in the first place is that it is inaccesible to grease the UJ.
any details on how to replace this driveshaft gratefully receivced.
thanks
Hi before you start removing bits of the exhaust try and determine that the problem is the intermediate shaft ....there should be some visual indication that the shaft is worn at the UJ's or loose at the flanges..best observed by looking up as the vehicle is rocked backwards and forwards..do it with the shaft partially rotated over 4 positions and use a bright light...if you find slop and play with the shaft changing position along its length not rotation then removal or tighten the flange bolts are your only options.. and the front cross box of the exhaust is in the way..only problem is unless it is a recent exhaust freeing up the bolts on the flanges will need red heat or a nut splitter..........DO NOT hammer or lever at the exhaust because that can crack the engine manifolds and it all gets very expensive after that.....
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I greased all the prop shafts a while ago, and will do them again asap to see if the problem eases.
In 4wd the vibration is much stronger especially through the transfer case stick, and accompanied with a clunk on every gear change (its an auto box), although the clunk is not evident in 2wd.
there is no apparent whine from the transfer case, but over the engine I may be missing something.
Thanks
Jed