a conundrum? or a right old result?
OK so here's another query for those mechanically minded of you.
An M102 engine, 230 4pot injected, a none runner.
Apparently according to a local garage (previous owner) it is hydraulicking.
engine very oily top end on nearside
so where would you start?
1) charge battery and spin over, no horrible dropped valve noises etc.
2) whip out plugs, all dry, although black, no signs of oil or water.
3) do a compression test, dry and wet, not too bad, a bit of variance, nothing major.
4) release hose clamp on petrol pipe, apparent puff from injector on each cylinder (plugs still out)
5) plug placed in each lead, held against exhaust manifold, sparks everywhere but seems a weird pattern/order, also arcing from leads, top of cap, in fact everywhere.
6) replace leads, oh no cant do that spare leads have caps that are two big for the head
7) cap off, looks new-ish to me, go to take rotor arm off, and it just goes around and around
So......immediately temporarily put second-hand engine search on hold.
I think it seems like the distributor is not being driven normally, but I thereafter turned the engine over in error, didnt mean to do that, but now the rotor arm seems fine, not free-turning. Something very weird going on here, I'm wondering if the dizzy shaft has snapped, or something more sinister is afoot at the drive end.
Any thoughts or observations?
there is a cog on the end of the dizzy shaft. They are often forsale on ebay so it must be a common problem, though not one I've had - everything else though. :cry:
If it's the same car I'm thinking of the previous owner described the faults and it didn't sound like 'hydraulicing' - just that the garage couldn't be arsed with finding what was wrong.
Hi John is the distributor body loose in the engine block ? (it can only engage with the drive shaft in one position) if the rotor shaft turns freely after bottoming the shaft and tightening the lock bolt (allen key head)then the quill shaft in the engine could be broken.. if rotor does not turn freely then you need to start the timing sequence at the beginning..find TDC on No 1 cylinder compression stroke (as you can be 180% out) (firing order shd be 1.3.4.2.) line up body and rotor arm to No 1 position and check lead for position on to No 1 plug.watch direction of rotation as next plug/lead to line up shld be No 3 cylinder next No 4 last No 2. in theory the outstanding adjustment shld be advance and retard.by this time you should have some firing/backfiring or if lead insulation is bad sparks everywhere. short term insulation smear leads with bathroom sealer /vaseline/nail varnish...could have a cracked distributor cap/wrong rotor arm..if no firing probably no fuel and that could be pump .pump relay clogged filter porous fuel line poor vacuum ..that's probably enough to be going on with........
OK so this one has moved on, yet not:
Update. Dizzy replaced (s/h - cheers Chris) along with cap leads plugs rotor arm. Fuel pressure checked, ok. Fuel distributor replaced as rubber body under it cracked to hell so airflow metering plate not moving.
I can still turn the rotor arm freely, about 200-250 degrees.
It it worth spending loads more time on this? I'm now wondering if the distributor drive within the engine is buggered. Remember, I still dont know if this engine is ok or not, and it looks like a timing cover off job to check further, in addition I'm worried could the timing chain itself or tensioner be at fault here.
So, replace engine or keep going? What do you reckon lads?
Might be worth considering options
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1988-MERCEDES-230-TE-AUTO-SILVER_W0QQitemZ26019010...
Hi why not remove the ignition distributor assembly from the engine ..at least you can see what the geared end looks like and if you can borrow a boroscope look in at the driving gear.. if the timing chain has broken you will be able to see this with the rocker cover removed and then its "engine out" anyway so the next stage would be to open up the front and survey the damage.would have thought that some valve damage would have resulted from the chain breaking..could be B.E.R. when you add it all up.........
OK, an update:-
The auxiliary shaft sprocket for the timing chain that drives the distributor basically has had its teeth worn/snapped off. Inspected by torch down the timing cover with the rocker cover off. So bad that the rotor arm can be freely rotated. I have not had the timing cover off yet as the vibration damper hub nut is proving to be a bitch and I'm scared of snapping the timing chain...
I'm now concerned with
a) where has all the metal from the teeth of the sprocket gone(could the engine have been written off through it)
b)How on earth could this have happened to start with?
You do like a challenge don't you. I have a dead engine here if you want any bits or indeed the whole thing.
dead as in u/s, or just not in use?
U/S - it had sat for a few years when I bought the car, ran fine but a bit gutless. Did basic service etc but one day it just ground to a halt. My other car had a very well done rebuild but a small crack in the head so i took the head off the dead engine. There was no great drama when it died - I suspect it was the oil pump or something.
I eventually got an engine from Bill Moss and it goes like a rocket - this one will be available if you want it but not for a couple of months
Could of had it sooner if I'd got that musso the other week :cry:
I'll bear it in mind Chris, might not fit with my impatient timescale !!!
I'll keep you posted - it's a bloody good engine
thanks mate
Hi John why not talk to Crewe Engines along the lines of " you have an engine you are considering sending to them for o'haul however you have observed the sprocket /distributor problem and could the metal have got into the oil galleries and starved the bearings if so would it be best just to Bin the whole thing" they may offer you something for the carcass !!
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it is, and thats exactly the impression i had. it was an exhaust-type centre i think.
the oil everywhere i believe to be due to a fractured breather which has been professionally repaired using red electrical insulating tape.
i guess its whip out the dizzy tomorrow then, and get some decent leads.
i hope it doesnt p*** down tomorrow like they say it will......