rev counter & what do these bits do
So some of you may have ben following my thread here http://www.gwoa.co.uk/forum/not-my-g-putting-it-back-together about puttig a friends g back together and eventually getting it MoT'ed, so far, so good. There are still a few things troubling me.
1, the rev counter doesn't want to work, i believe this is the sensor pictured below
2, I had some spares left over, does anyone know where these bits go pictured below?
Thanks
James
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Last picture:
Item on LHS is an oil dip stick tube,
Item on RHS is the breather pipes from axles and, transfer box - these mount on the bulk head, in between the battery tray and vent box.
2nd picture:
Image is not very clear but it looks like an inner wing item or attaches on exhaust acting as a heat sheild?
Hi
I am with Rakesh on these
Picture 1 T.D.C. Sender Unit for Rev Counter (picture 1a)
Picture 2 - The left bracket with the 2 bolt holes is the Heat shield from the rear of the Starter Motor (picture 2L)
The right bracket looks like it could be a shield for the engine mountings? (picture 2R)
Picture 3 - Dipstick tube left (picture 3L) and Gearbox / Bell Housing Breather Pipes on the right (picture 3R)
Pictures attached from EPC
I think the Rev Counter is controlled by a unit on the left inner wing, can’t for the life of me remember what it’s called!?! Transistor Unit? Round thingy in (picture 1b)
Gav
Hi James
I have never known that sensor go bad!!!
It is always the other part that goes and takes out the rev counter and something else....??!??!?
Memory is failing me
The other part fits onto the diagnostic socket on the left inner wing (round) i think and although a new one is expensive i believe you can facilitate a local repair with resistors or some such from an electronics store or similar, never done it but read it many times....
I will try to search a fix
Gav
"Tacho not working on a late model or imported G (UK) is usually the Tach amplifier which is situated in the cylinder beside the glow plug relay. I have used an aftermarket alternative for the past two years with great success. An auto electrician should be able to diagnose this for you."
One alternative....as link in above paragraph
http://mbelectronicupgrades.com/Tachometer_Amp.html
But these are common on many MB models from memory...part number A001 545 59 32 and fit some 123/124/201 diesel models i.e. W124 250D / 300D W201 190D 2.0 / 190D 2.5 OM601/602/603 engines.... as we as the OM617 G's
Thanks to the AGOA guys....
"A big thanks to JMKOZ for his recommendation of the aftermarket tacho amplifier. $50 and two minutes to install and we have a working tacho. It's a pity more jobs aren't as simple as that"
AGOA thread that i pulled this from.....
http://australiangelandewagenownersassociation.yuku.com/topic/1225/1987-SWB-300GD-Manual?page=1
I have seen a home made fix somewhere too...will keep searching my memory
Gav
Depending on how bad the amplifier internal circuits are; I have, had a few going again, some temporarily.
Unscrew the amplifiers cover, firmly pull out the amplifier and again firmly pull the cover off the amplifier its self.
Take an A5 piece of paper and fold into quarter or a card of similar thickness; place the paper on top of the amplifier and fit its cover firmly back on. Re-fit the amplifier into its socket a screw the cover back on.
Hopefully, the rev counter may start registering, if not, replace the amplifier, these are not cheap from the dealer. Some £116 or so when last checked. Gavin's suggestion seem to be a better alternative.
The amplifier is usually the culprit and I have not heard of the pick up sensor failing or the rev counter its self, but that does not mean these cannot be faulty.
What is the recommended distance setting for the sensor to the weight block?
Thanks
Re-edited; previous remark deleted by myself.
I do not have particular data relevant to a diesel engine but one of the 280GE; I expect the setting would be within range.
Clearance is between 0.2mm - 2.0mm. The clearance is between the sensor and the top of protruding timing nodule.
It will be the amplifier wiring on the rev counter circuit mounted on the inner wing. I fixed mine. First was this http://www.gwoa.co.uk/node/7710 but the real answer is posted here which I did to mine http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1652194-permanent-tachometer-amplifier-fix.html
Basically there are very fine wires between the circuit board and the pins which is all set inside silicon sealant. The wires corrode so you need to pick it all apart very slowly and replace the wires; a quiet afternoon's work. I repacked with silicon grease instead and it works great. The corroding wires is why the packing with fag filiters/cardboard etc works for a while as it presses the wire closer to the pins. The circuit board and the socket actually have numbers on them so you do not have to be that careful (I was) and also note you do not need the shielded very thin wire used.. some thin (about 1mm OD) wire from Maplin etc would do fine.
It is a common 460 failure.. most folk on a diesel shrug shoulders as a rev counter is not the end of the world but it is good to keep the revs up for hill climbing (to keep water temps down as they climb below 2,500 rpm) and to keep below 3,000 rpm for fuel economy.
Other parts ..yes.. but the wade tubes are mounted to the back of the engine not the bulkhead I think.. but not sure on that sheild you have.
Hi guys, sorry to piggy back the thread but will the replacement amp work on a 1989 300 GD ? My rev counter is very random.
I am sorry that, I don't quite follow on what you are asking.
- Will a replacement amp (meter) work on your model? If you are replacing one already fitted, then should your amp meter be faulty then, obviously, Yes it should.
- Replacing an amp meter in place of the rev counter; I can not see its purpose and I don't know.
- The erratic reading on your rev counter is due to the amplifier being faulty, the subject of the above thread.
- Finally, it is possible to wire an amp meter into a diesel. This is a separate circuit.
Rakesh, i would think SPIKE was refering to Amp as in Amplifier to cure his erratic Rev Counter?
Gav
To answer your question Spike then yes it probably will...
Why not try Rakesh's paper/card trick and see if that cures it temporarily, if so then a DIY wire repair or a new Amplifier either after market or OE MB should do the trick
Gav
Thanks for your response guys, I've read the link from Gav and it says the replacement amp is suitable for pre 1985 models, so not too sure it will fit a 1989, I could and probably am reading it wrong, but if it will fix the random rev counter I am very interested, I will try try the A 5 paper and see if it works. Thanks
Hi Spike
Yes your 89 is the same, just checked the part number for the Amplifier and the same A001 545 59 32 is the MB number
Gav
Thanks, Gav
Just re-visited this site and I notice how slow at times to catch on. Thanks for the clarification Gav.
Hello Again
A few more queries;
The pipe believed to be a dipstick tube is not a dipstick tube, they are very different. This one has a smaller bore and is shorter in length compared to a dipstick tube, and I am not missing a dipstick tube! Any further ideas?
The breather pipes for the bellhousing/gearbox (picture 3R), if flexible pipe 8 connects to rigid pipe 12 , what does flexible pipe 16 connect to? I can find nothing in the vacinity?
Thanks James
Throttle linkage, bulkhead bellcrank to engine bellcrank??
There should be a short pipe stemming out from the bell-housing or more logically the gear box body to which hose 16 attaches on to. With the gearbox in situ you are sort of working blind, use a mirror and some good light to locate it. Most probably it will be at a12 O'clock position; if you have not experienced the look and feel of the pipe before, it is difficult to feel for it.
As for the dip stick, may be it is a part off another engine; you did say your bits were in box.
I am still sticking with a dipstick tube!!!
Did you not have a car OM617 engine that you were trying to fit?
The G and Car Sumps are completely different
Are the G Sumps an all alloy affair whereas the the Car one is alloy with a Steel Pan
The Bracket and Grommet set up look like the dipstick one and it looks like a pipe that the end 3" has been pushed inside something else...i.e the engine sump
Gav
Failing that it could be the missing link for the Breather set up you are using and the clean bit of pipe could have been in that hose?
If you look on the attached picture Item 45 is the twin Breather set up, one pipe goes via a short rubber hose onto the Front Breather on the Bell Housing the other pipe goes via another short rubber hose onto another peice of pipe then along the top of the Gearbox onto another short hose then onto the Rear Gearbox Breather near the output flange area.
Item 45 is the twin Breather
Item 60 is the extensions pipe with 75 and 90 the Bracket and Grommet?
Would make sense if you are strugging to locate any other pipe work to connect to
Hope you get there
Gav
Rakesh
You are referring to pipe 12 in the diagram which I have already said I have connected to. The breather shows and has two seperate pipes, my query was what does the second one connect to?
Thanks
James
Its deffinitely not a dipstick, I have three engines and three disticks! I 'll have to take some photos to show the difference...
Gav
Thanks for the diagram, I think this is it, but I don't remember seeing a breather at the back of the gearbox when I fitted it, but I'll have to go a scrabble about underneath. Makes the most sense.
Many Thanks
James
James
This may help
Gav
the tube goes up the side of the gearbox with a short piece of flex at each end to fit the box barbed fitting and the other end to go on up to the nest of breather tubes in the engine bay /or connect on to the spare pipe on the connections on the back of the engine.
Gav
As usual; Brilliant.
Cheers
James
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Hi Gav
Yep, rev counter sensor. I cannot get it too work no matter how close I mount it to the shaft weight. Its new so should be okay. Are there any usual problems to check with these?
Cheers
James