Front Wheel Bearing , Service
In the service book it is recommended to clean and repack the tapered wheel bearings, no stamps in my service book! Is this neccesary and how hard is this to and are any special tools required?
If you are referring to the front wheel hubs (CV-joints) it is indeed difficult, it requires special tools and specific knowledge.
The whole procedure is excellently covered in the relevant MB workshop manual that the GWOA makes available to its members.
If you are interested in becoming a member, you can find the application form here:
http://www.gwagen.fsnet.co.uk/id16.htm
Cheers,
As a member you may make use of the members work shop. contact gtruckuk@aol.com
One of the best places for tech info is www.clubwagen.com
An excellent description of a full axel rebuild with photos. http://www.clubgwagen.com/gtech.php?pageTitle=tech%20article&sid=item&ti...
Also there is the Mercedes manual for it. It seems that the Mercedes method of preloading the front taper rollers might be suspect and Clubwagens advice is to tighten them up as you would any other taper roller rather than leaving some play
Explain, tighten as you would any other taper roller bearing.
Bill Moss
Ernest , I have looked at the web site you recommend and only got as far as the second picture, removing wheel studs with an impact air gun is a short cut to stripped threads on the stud and the hub I won't bother reading any further.
Bill
Only trying to help. I was under the impression that most tyre places use impact wrenches to remove and fit wheel bolts and generally the only problem is to over torque the bolt so that you cant remove it by hand when you get a flat but the correct procedure would be to use a torque wrench to tighten it finally, but of course you can choose what to do in that case. I still believe that this article is very useful and had my bearings needed replacing would have been a great help, but as yet they don’t. Its not particularly complicated but is very nice to have a bunch of photos showing what goes where – rather than the sterile Mercedes manual http://www.clubgwagen.com/gtech.php?pageTitle=tech%20article&sid=item&ti... Which in my view is less helpful, 33.61 shows adjusting the wheel bearing play with a special tool to 0.02-.04mm whereas on a normal roller bearing it would be tightened till binding and backed off a bit to result in no play but that is entirely up to whoever’s doing it - there has been a lot of discussion on the US forum on this and Haralds site http://4x4abc.com/G-Class/bearing.html also has advice and as he used his in extreme conditions it might just be relevant.
Good tyre places never use air guns to loosen studs/nuts only to remove them once they are loosened by hand, the best practice is to tighten first half a turn to break the bond of rust and crud away from the thread, then unwind with the feeling of your hand if the thread begins to jam you can back off again and spray some jungle juice on before continuing.taking off should be taken with the same care as putting on.
Another good practice when doing work of this kind is do one side at a time you have always got the other one assembld to look at then.
Changing wheel bearings or repacking is not a difficult task on a G but it is important that it is done correctly, I beleave its one of those jobs best left to some one with the appropriate skills, the consequences of a mistake could be a disaster. allthough there may be 6 studs holding the wheel on, they only fasten it to the hub via the disc, the hub is retained to the axle by ONE nut and thats the one you adjust the bearings with, you have then only one chance of getting it right.
Bill
Of course you’re right, but good tyre places a few and far between mine wheel nuts must have been over 130ftlbs when I bought it, broke two sockets getting them loose. Luckily the hubs seem to ok, but I replaced the bolts
The wheel bearings are, indeed, very important but as to the best method of getting the right preload I am still confused – my gut feeling is that no play would be best especially with synthetic grease but getting it wrong is expensive to say the least.
It is difficult, I am of the old scool and still rely on feel and instinct as well as tried and tested engineering practice, No play is ideal. but many people when changing bearings forget there are two parts to it, and only change one, or cant get the face out so leave it in, or get it out and dont press the new one fully in.
NO play but free rotation is the best result & recheck after say 1000mls.
Bill Moss
Better with slight play than no play ( easier said than done on the G ) as everything expands when it warms up and they will heat up rapidly if there is no play. On most vehicles I have had, the method used was a castleated nut and split pin which was nice and easy to adjust. I find the G system very hit and miss given you have a lock nut in there but if you are patient then it can be done without any special tools. Like Bill I feel there is no substitute for "feel and instinct" also experience play's a big part in this, so go along with his recommenation to any novices of leaving it to someone in the know. The thing is if you don't do it, how will you gain the experience :shock:
Bring it to the members workshop where you can do it yoursel under supervision.
contact gtruckuk@aol.com
Ernest , I have looked at the web site you recommend and only got as far as the second picture, removing wheel studs with an impact air gun is a short cut to stripped threads on the stud and the hub I won't bother reading any further.
Bill I'm sure you are correct in what you say. However if you look through that site you will see that there is no way the wheel studs on that particular G would be seized. Could well have applied to some of my wheel studs though so point taken.
It does appear to be common practice though, not just tyre depots but main dealers as well. A work colleague has just had a major battle with a Vovo/Jag dealer who ruined alloys worth £300 ea. by using impact tools to remove the wheels. (not bad for £90/hr labour rates!)
Maybe I am being a bit harsh, and I am sure the article is helpful, but short cuts often become the longest route.
Bill Moss
Pleased to hear it, it could also be play in a swivel bearing often mistaken for wheel bearing play.
The members workshop is exactly that, based in Daventry it is part of my business but I affer the facility to club members to use under supervision or on a service basis for a small charge to do work or have work done on there Gs.
Bill Moss
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Thanks for all the information! Only one side has a very slight rock to it , though this was not enough to worry the MOT man. As it is not used in adverse conditions I assume it is not necessery to repack the bearings?
I am a member of GWOA , what is this workshop? More details please.