Front spheres

1 reply [Last post]
Wed, 26/11/2025 - 12:56
RozzaTS
RozzaTS's picture
Offline
Joined: 03.10.2025
Location: Brighton

This is our first g wagon (1988 280ge SWB) and looking for advice regarding front spheres. We are slowly working through the vehicle as it has been off the road for 3 years. 

I am presuming the spheres need resealing internally as this looks like a lot a mess, to my untrained eye? (see attached pictures).

I will be getting my mechanic to do the job, they have worked on lots of 4x4's previously but not done a g wagon before.

Is there a definitive list of what parts that are needed for the job? 
Do parts need to be OEM merc?
Also a 'how to' I can print off as reference?

Is it good practice to replace bearings at the same time or is it just assess and see once opened up? There are no documents with the car so have no idea if replaced previously.

Forum Gallery: 
Top
Wed, 26/11/2025 - 18:21
#1
GWOA Admin
GWOA Admin's picture
Offline
Joined: 11.09.2010
Location: Oxford
GWOA Groups: Committee, Members
Re: Front spheres

That looks OK to me!  Maybe just a clean up needed?

But for the procedure, see here.  Last para for the wheel bearings:

Replacing the front wheel hubs (wheel bearing hubs) on a 1988 Mercedes-Benz 280GE (W460/W461 G-Class) is a substantial job that requires good mechanical skills, a hydraulic press, torque wrenches, and some special tools. The 1988 280GE has the early portal axle setup with lockable differentials and freewheel hub locks (manual locking hubs).

Tools and Parts Needed

  • New front wheel hub assemblies (or rebuilt ones with new bearings/races, stub axle, etc.) – Mercedes P/N A460 330 00 25 (left) and A460 330 01 25 (right) or equivalent
  • New hub locking hubs (if worn) + gasket
  • New axle shaft nut (stake nut, one-time use) A460 990 00 53
  • New circlips, seals, O-rings as required
  • High-temperature wheel bearing grease
  • 46 mm socket (for axle nut)
  • 10 mm Allen socket (for hub lock and drain/fill plugs)
  • Large torque wrench (up to 400 Nm)
  • Hydraulic press (20–30 ton) – absolutely required
  • Pullers (three-jaw, hub puller, slide hammer)
  • Brass drift and big hammer
  • Dial indicator (for checking bearing play afterward)

Step-by-Step Procedure (One Side)

  1. Safety First
    • Jack the front axle and support the vehicle on stands (under the axle housing, not the body).
    • Remove the wheel.
  2. Remove Manual Locking Hub
    • Unscrew the 6 small bolts on the hub cap with a 10 mm Allen.
    • Pull the locking hub assembly straight out (it may be stuck; use two of the bolts in the threaded puller holes).
  3. Remove Drive Flange / Hub Cap
    • Remove the snap ring (circlip) and shim(s) from the stub axle with snap-ring pliers.
    • Pull the drive flange off (may need a puller or careful taps).
  4. Remove Axle Shaft Stake Nut
    • Bend back the staking on the 46 mm nut.
    • Use a 46 mm socket + long breaker bar (or impact) to remove the nut and washer. Torque is 300–400 Nm originally, so it’s tight.
  5. Remove the Entire Hub Assembly
    • Remove the 5 bolts (17 mm) that hold the hub to the steering knuckle (they are usually very tight).
    • The hub will now be free but is still pressed onto the stub axle/shaft.
    • Use a large hub puller or a slide hammer attached to the wheel studs to push the hub off the stub axle. This can take serious force; sometimes heat (carefully) on the hub helps.
  6. Disassemble Old Hub (Usually Done on a Press)
    • Press the stub axle out of the old hub/bearing.
    • Press out the old bearing races (they are destroyed in removal).
  7. Rebuild / Install New Hub
    • If using a new complete hub assembly (recommended), skip to step 8.
    • If rebuilding: thoroughly clean everything, press in new bearing races, pack bearings with grease, press stub axle back in, install new seal.
  8. Install New/Rebuilt Hub
    • Slide the new hub onto the stub axle splines.
    • Install the 5 hub-to-knuckle bolts with Loctite 270 (red) and torque to 120 Nm in a star pattern.
  9. Reinstall Axle Shaft Components
    • Install washer + new stake nut.
    • Torque the axle nut to 300–320 Nm initially, then final torque 380–400 Nm while rotating the hub, then stake the nut with a punch.
  10. Reinstall Shims and Drive Flange
    • Reinstall the original shims (critical for bearing preload) + snap ring.
    • Check end play with a dial indicator — spec is 0.01–0.04 mm. Add/remove shims if necessary (rarely perfect first try).
  11. Reinstall Locking Hub
    • Grease lightly, install new gasket if needed.
    • Torque the 6 Allen bolts to 20 Nm.
  12. Final Steps
    • Fill portal box with ~0.35 L of 85W-90 gear oil (there is a fill plug on the knuckle).
    • Re-mount wheel, torque lug bolts 170 Nm.
    • Repeat on the other side.

Important Notes for 1988 280GE

  • The early W460 hubs are different from later W463 hubs — do not mix parts.
  • Preload is set by the shims behind the drive flange, not by the axle nut torque alone.
  • If you do not have a press and experience pressing wheel bearings, take the old hub and new parts to a competent shop — the bearings are easily destroyed if pressed incorrectly.
  • After the job, check for any clicking or binding when the hubs are locked/unlocked and test 4WD engagement.

If you just want to replace the wheel bearings and keep the original hub, the job is similar but requires pressing the old stub axle out and new bearings in — most owners simply buy complete new hub assemblies because labor is the same and the stub axles often have wear.

Top