Engine mounts
Question is - Can T1 van engine mounts be used instead of the G specific ones?
I'd rather spend £50 odd on a pair than £200 odd.
I researched and read that they can be, but then I read somewhere else that said no.
Has anybody on a budget actually used them?
They do look very similar, though the T1 mount has studs at the base, and the G ones use bolts.
Cheers,
Ben
Hi Ben
They physically fit fine.... identical mount with just as you say 2 studs sticking down rather than bolt holes
This can make the the fitting easier in some situations
The compromise depends on what engine you are fitting
The T1 version were only ever designed for 4 and 5 cylinder versions and from memory there are 3 tyoes (strengths) denoted by part number and a colour code depending on 102/616/601 4 cylinder and 602/617 5 cylinder models
With the G there are around 6 tyoes
If say you are using T1 5 cylibder versions designed for a 602.617 engine and you are fitting 602/605 engine or have fitted already a factory 102/617 all will be OK in stock tune
if you are going for a 6 ctlinder 603/606 or something with a lot more power than a 70/80 bhp T1 would have had then the T1 mount will probably have a short life span, hence the G mounts are better ftom a version with facotry 606 or V6 / V8 etc
The MB ones are probably close to £350 a pair now and the FEBI T1's as you say £50/75 a pair if you shop around
As well as budget you need to consider, engine, weight, power and usage
Don't forget that a 616/617 with cast iron head and block will actually be heavier than a 602/605 with alloy head and not much less than a 606 with alloy head... power is probably the most critical factor
Gearbox type maybe also needs to be factored in too...
Usage also... occasional road use they will hold out much longer than hard pounding off road abuse
Hope that helps
Gav
I ordered the Febi mounts earlier this week, part numbers 07650 and 07652, which are listed as fitting a T1/T2 van with 617 engine.
They arrived yesterday so got on with fitting this afternoon. Took about 2 hours, so not too bad. I used the method of removing the cast mounts from the side of the engine, this gave me plenty of room to get the old ones out and new ones back in.
The exhaust/intake side was much easier than having to work in close proximity of the injection pump and oil cooler lines. The M12 nut on the top of the mount was the worst to get off, only being able to get a fraction of a turn on the spanner at a time. No way I could have got a socket on there.
Haven't yet driven it, but it feels smoother for the brief few moments I started it up for. The old mounts were not in the best condition.
Great result...
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Hi Gav,
Yes, that was more than helpful. This is the information I was looking for and more.
I think I'll have to give them a go - they cant be any worse than my old ones. The rubber has completely come away from the steel on my old ones, and the engine is dancing away under the bonnet. I guess that's to be expected with bringing a G back to life from a ten or more year sleep and putting it straight into daily use.
The engine is a boat anchor 617, early style with 80hp! I'll look for the van versions that used the 617 and then i'll be in with a chance.
Thanks again,
Ben