Bovril Moment

Well from a distance it looks great, I like the colour. Don't forget to let the appropriate authority know about the colour change.

Hi Paul Looks great and suits the G well.. As you say, if your going to use it in anger, best to have a finish that suits the job.. mind you I still keep thinking about that ORC one that had that plastic hammered finish :-) that someone posted. And finally by co-incidence after a complete restoration 4 years ago, mine is beginning to rust... sodding thing.. but next year I'm thinking of going down a clay green classic merc colour route myself! Great effort Simon

Simon, where is rust coming back? Sure you not getting it out of perspective?

For what its worth I think it looks great.

Hi Jason I lost my perspective when I bought a G :-) It is coming from the joints where the old panels meet the new... so specifically the sides where the joint seam is just below the windows - started at the back on both sides where the old top panel meets the new bottom panel and the new entire rear... now showing at the front on the seam by the door pillar. As you may recall whilst not repaired as it was not rusting on the original restoration the windscreen seam keeps rusting - although we have managed to contain that to just the drivers side after an 'Intervention' I am going to take it to a classic car restorer we have found with good reputation to see what they advise re how long it can be left before it becomes major - If I seem quite level headed about this,,,,, trust me I'm not. But Ive been back to the guy who did it and his view is that as its where old meets new then he can't cover it.. My view is there was something wrong with how they sealed the joints between the new OEM panels and the new, and they are flexing allowing moisture into the seam perhaps from the inside out - or the new 2 part (porous water based) paint is somewhat playing a part.. I think I might Artex it though - nothing shifts that :-)) Simon

Hi Arnie I have a feeling that the issue was the internal seam sealer. problem is the solution is to split the seams again - which sounds a bit of a hassle - and do it properly - Hence the trip to the specialist restorer.. I'm no body specialist, but as far as I'm aware rust needs a catalyst, two of which would be water and oxygen, so if the joints sealed, job done. As you say from both sides is the important bit. They did put waxoil on the inside seam, but not that thick white stuff you see in the factory. Anyway - The green roller job looks great. Look forward to seeing it with the black trim on. Simon

Your restorer will know, but Dinitrol do a wide range of waxes for application in different parts of the vehicle, including engine. WaxOyl is OK, for general use under the car, but perhaps not for this, as I don't think it really contains any corrosion inhibitors.

http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/

http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/Products/RustPreventionWaxesandOils.aspx

Cavity Waxes

DINITROL 3650 - new metal, heavy duty for high corrosion environments - MOD

DINITROL ML3125 - old metal, penetrates through rust, contains high level of corrosion inhibitors

DINITROL 3642W - new metal, new build OEM

DINITROL 3654 - retreating existing applications

DINITROL ML - thin, high penetrating - contains high level of corrosion inhibitors

DINITROL 1000 - old metal, clear, for classic cars

DINITROL 77B - light brown dries to a harder, thicker film used in areas of high mechanical abrasion

 

UnderBody Waxes

DINITROL 4941 - black, tough, elastic and waxy film

DINITROL 4942 - brown, tough, elastic and waxy film

DINITROL 4942M - brown, tough, elastic and waxy film with higher solid content - lower VOC

DINITROL METALLIC - brown, tough, elastic and waxy film - does not harm rubber or plastics

DINITROL HP - high performance, clear, allows paint colour to show through

 

Stone Chip Protection

DINITROL 445 - synthetic resin/plastic based. Black, ideal for wheel arches on off road vehicles.

DINITROL 447 - rubber and resin based, rust protection agent. Contains zinc additives.

 

Transportation Waxes

DINITROL 112 - thick, viscous for long term storage

DINITROL ML - thin, easily removable for short term storage

 

 

The only thing I don't like about some of their cavity waxes- such as ML3125 -  is that they are brown in colour and so can make the area look rusty, even if it isn't.  But I guess they are also for disguising rusty areas.

 

 

 

Looks well now the rubbing strips are back on.

People would be amazed how good finish you can achieve with a roller, we just primed my mk1 escort with a roller, will obviously have to flat it back before the colour coat which will be sprayed on, but for a matt finish that can be a little textured nothing wrong with rolling!